20.8.21

Holmestrand Harbor Watch

Less than three weeks ago, a crew of movers came to our Oslo apartment, and in a frighteningly fast and efficient process, completely dismantled the life we'd spent four years constructing there. That night we slept in our curtainless new bedroom in the creaky, airy new home in Holmestrand. The weeks since that day have been chaotic but productive, with people coming to inspect and deliver, welcome us to the neighborhood, and meet our new home. We've had wood brought into our spacious wood shed to hopefully last the whole winter, we've had people come to inspect the room upstairs where a kitchen was installed postwar, where we hope to build a bathroom. We've had friends and family come to see our new home and taste homemade fruit tart (our own berries!), and new neighbors arrive with welcoming plants and cookies.

It's hard to describe just how much this place feels like where I was supposed to be all these years in Oslo. It's a lovely city and I've enjoyed getting to know it, but I missed the smell of grass being mown, the drone of a lawnmower being the loudest sound coming from my open window. I have become the family's number one fan of laundry because hanging it is such a treat with the sea view, the arc of blue skies above, and the scent of an unknown but viscerally familiar plant crushed beneath my feet. The sheets then flap in the sea breezes and come inside smelling of oxygen and energy, and my children do what all children have done since clotheslines were invented, racing through the hanging sheets as I chide them for pulling them askew.

And the view.. I cannot say enough about how much it has changed the shape and enjoyment of our lives to have this gigantic sweep of sky and strip of fjord so visible from the house. This region seems to be prone to brief rain squalls, which ruins my laundry drying but makes the clouds all the more interesting, and we have the best seat in town to enjoy them all. We look out on the major shipping channel going from Oslo, so the days have begun to be punctuated by the passing of the ferries to Germany and Denmark. Every morning as we eat breakfast during the week, we watch for the Kiel ferry arriving, and when I see it pass on the way out of Oslo in the afternoon, I know it's time to go pick the kids up.

We've become familiar with the moods of the water here, waking to the silver sheen of morning light that makes the islands look like navy blue whales dreaming in the water. In the afternoon the fjord is a brilliant teal striped with white as small boats race in and out of the local harbor, and then as we eat dinner, it turns a luminous turquoise when the sun swings around the back of our house. And now as I write this, the sky is a dull periwinkle striped with pink clouds, and the matte grey of the water lies placid in the darkening light.

Earlier today while the kids had their usual Friday dose of TV time, I slipped outside to the long low light striping across our newly mown grass and just lay there listening to the quiet hum of the in-between time. Too early for the evening crowd to be out, too late for kids to be playing outside, the only sound I could hear was the distant thrum of a ventilation fan somewhere, and some magpies conversing in the next yard. As I lay there I had this sudden realization that this piece of ground I lay on was mine. My first time actually owning property and it is this slice of magic, surrounded by rose bushes and apple trees, and guarded by an elegant old oak tree. Dripping with black currants and bursting with rhubarb, buzzing with bees and butterflies this time of year, and scented of manure, flowers, sea, and grass. My home.

19.5.21

Almost there

 In the years since I last posted here, a lot of new features were added to my life. That navy blue eyed sunnmøringer I mentioned before became my husband. We celebrated our wedding with our family and friends deep in the best part of his home region, a tiny village on the shores of Hjørundfjord. As we said our vows, our infant son lay sleeping strapped to the chest of my college friend's husband.

When we returned to Oslo, it was to our brand-new apartment that we had just moved into a few weeks before. As a new build, it didn't come with so much as a lightbulb or a closet, and since we moved in early May it was months before we realized we really needed more lamps. The boxes I'd packed up in February when I moved from my studio apartment took almost a year to unpack. By that time I was heavily pregnant with our daughter, who joined our family three summers ago. Last year I applied to be a Norwegian citizen, which was approved only three hours after I delivered the required documentation to the immigration directorate.

Since then, I've tried to write a post saying I've finally found my home, since it seems that with all the family happiness one could hope for and a country that has welcomed me as a citizen, I must have a home now. Something has never quite felt right about where we live though. It's brand new, bright, and as city apartments go it is spacious, but we bought it before there was even the dream of children in our lives. Those children continue to need more and more equipment- helmets and skis and skates and LEGO bricks galore and sixteen varieties of outdoor clothing, all of which has become harder and harder to store in this space.

But mostly, I've had this feeling of something being missing, that something I had in abundance when I lived in Iceland. I miss seeing the weather sweeping across the sky, I miss taking a moment from my work to look out the window and remember where it is I live, the place that still makes me weep when I spend a morning skiing alone in the majestic trees. I miss being able to see the tiny changes in the landscape as spring unfolds, to smell the earth waking up as the snow melts. I miss the quiet of an early morning and the space to see sunset skies.

So, yesterday we put this place on the market. We bought a house a month ago in what seems like a remarkably spur-of-the-moment decision in retrospect. We'd both agreed it was time to return to our roots as small-town people and in the absence of any other activities available during the Easter week, we did day trips around the Oslo area. One town really struck us as the perfect balance of coziness and connectivity to the city, access to necessary services and the nature I crave in abundance. We did a search for properties available and found the kind of house I've always loved from afar here, expecting that it was just not the kind of home within my reach. My practical father-in-law read through the inspection report, a process I expected to reveal the fatal flaws of the hundred year old house, but all he did was make approving noises. New roof, new windows, properly drained foundation, replaced electricity and insulation.

We went to see the place and I did my best to conceal my immediate love of the sweeping staircase, the double doors opening out to the majestic view of fjord and sky, the upstairs conservatory with even more of the glorious view. But my husband knew how I felt when he saw my face, and he saw all the potential such a home could offer too. A week later, the place was ours.

Since then, I've had several rounds of panic over this sudden change of life plans, but somehow every potential hiccup has been smoothed out. We found a delightful new daycare/school for the children that had space despite us applying outside the main enrollment period. We have visited the town multiple times and explored the charming boardwalk area and downtown. We found where everyone goes for ice cream on sunny days, and beachcombed on the rocks of the beach that's a few hundred meters from the new home. We even got a chance to introduce the children to the house, where my son gravely asked where he would be washing his hands when he got home from daycare. My daughter has spent the days we have visited introducing everyone to her favorite dress and generally spreading the sunshine she has become famous for. 

And now that the hardest part of preparing our current place for sale is over, I'm starting to allow myself to dream of mornings drinking coffee as I watch morning develop over the fjord, of afternoons gardening in my own yard while my son digs in his sand box, of my daughter riding her bicycle to the sweet park a few blocks from the house. I want to cook meals together with my husband in our seaview kitchen, invite friends to the terrace for cake and coffee. I'm ready to be home.